Reflected glory: an ornamental pond in Nice’s new Promenade du Paillon. Photograph: Alamy
Take me there
Why go?
Nice is enjoying a starring role in Woody Allen’s new film Magic in the Moonlight, which depicts the golden age of the Côte d’Azur in the 20s. While the city can still deliver faded glamour, it’s no museum piece. Like many of its older residents, the grande dame of the Riviera has “had a bit of work done” in recent years – the iconic opera house has had a facelift, and a new public park, the Promenade du Paillon, has created a “green corridor” linking the old and new towns. Meanwhile a revitalised restaurant and bar scene is bringing a younger crowd into the port area, and the city’s world-class art galleries and museums continue to rival Paris’s.
What to do
Browse the food and flower stalls of the famous Cours Saleya market in Vieux Nice, then head for one of the city’s excellent galleries. The Musée d’Art Moderne et d’Art Contemporain (mamac-nice.org) is a great starting point, but if time allows take a bus to the genteel neighbourhood of Cimiez for museums dedicated to the works of Matisse (musee-matisse- nice.org) and Chagall. Immerse yourself in the beauty of the Belle Époque on the palm-fringed Promenade des Anglais – cocktails in the wood-panelled bar of the pink-domed Hotel Negresco are a must.
Where to eat
Olive et Artichaut is an old-town newcomer which is creating a stir with its fresh take on Mediterranean cuisine (oliveartichaut.com).
Where to stay
Rooms kitted out by artists and a leafy garden with pool, a short walk from the beach, make the Hotel Windsor one of the best bargains in town (from €79, hotelwindsornice.com).
Insider tip
The local street-food is socca, a kind of chickpea crêpe. According to Thelma Rath, owner of A Taste of Nice, which offers gourmet walking tours (foodtoursofnice.com), the best are to be found at Socca Tram (6 Avenue Alfred Borriglione): “It’s a little off the beaten path, but combine it with a wander around the Libération food market for a real Niçoise experience.”
Give me a break
Nature trail: cosy Oak Tree Cottage, in the heart of the Welsh countryside.
Welsh wildlife break A new cottage set in the Welsh Wildlife Centre and Teifi Marshes Nature Reserve is promising guests a true back-to-nature experience. The cosy Oak Tree Cottage, which sleeps four, has an outdoor adventure park, willow maze and nature trails to explore and the reserve’s resident water buffalo to befriend. A three-night break at the cottage starts from £250 (welshwildlife.org/oak-tree-cottage-cwtch).
Light fantastic: Prague’s Hotel Sax, a 60s bolthole.
Art weekend in Prague See the historic centre of Prague lit up with art installations and video displays this month. The Signal light festival will transform landmarks such as the Charles Bridge (16-19 October, signalfestival.com). Stay at the Hotel Sax, a hip 60s-style bolthole, and get three nights for the price of two. A long-weekend stay (Friday-Monday) costs from £54pp on a B&B basis until 1 December (i-escape.com/hotel-sax).
